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24/3/11

Lesson #2: Know Where You Want To Go

You must know where you want to go, and you'd do well to be pretty specific about it.
Knowing where to go - what your goals are - is important for quite a few reasons, above all the fact that your best chance to achieve your goals is to make a plan that enables them. This article is about how you set goals for yourself, and the principles you should employ when you make a plan to reach those goals.
First, let me reiterate something I mentioned in the first article: This series is not aimed at casual players. If your goals are simply "I want to win $1,000" or "I want to play 100 SnG's" then you don't need to dive into the kind of planning I talk about here. This is directed at people who want to be serious students of the game of poker, who want to go as far as they can with the time that they have to spend on it, whether this is 5 or 50 hours a week.
Step one in this process is defining and understanding what you want out of poker. Psychology of Poker by Dr. Alan Schoonmaker may be a good book for you to read to come to terms with what your own motivations are, but right now I will presume that they are a mixture of wanting to challenge yourself and wanting to make money. Hopefully the thrill of gambling isn't one of them; whether or not you also want to play to some extent to pass time is also largely irrelevant.
I want to make it clear that making money and challenging yourself may be goals that are contradicting each other, which may not be obvious. Won't higher limits bring both more challenge and more money? Only to a point. Unless you're one of the best players in the world, you are bound to sooner or later reach a limit where you're no longer making money, or just about breaking even. In this case, it's better if you step down to where you maximize your earning if your goal is to make as much money as possible. However, if your goal is to constantly challenge yourself, you should be willing to spend more time fighting at a higher level before learning how to beat it.
An extreme example of money vs. challenge is a player who will play 10 games of $2/$4 limit hold 'em simultaneously online. This was, presumably, challenging and difficult in the beginning. But after a few months of successfully doing this for 40 hours a week, it will become less and less challenging, even mechanical.
So ask yourself, what do you want to achieve? Do you want to be able to eventually take shots at $100/$200? Or are you in it for the money? Accepting that the goals can be contradicting each other is important.
Before we move on to how to construct your plan, I want to suggest a couple of other advantages to making one at all:
Planning...
... breeds discipline
By now, I've hopefully done a pretty good job of giving you the idea that successfully mastering poker is hard work, and if I have, then pointing out that hard work requires discipline is hopefully easy to accept. If you're devoted to the task, then the goal you set for yourself may require a lot of effort to reach, and us humans are infamous for our dislike of effort - we're lazy by nature, this is why we invent all this convenient stuff like armchairs, internet shopping and the wheel. We need to be reminded of why we're putting in all this effort to keep us motivated, even when things aren't going our way and the world appears to be conspiring against us.
Staying disciplined is difficult, but with proper planning it becomes a little bit easier. A lot of people find enjoyment in being able to cross things off their to-do list even if the things actually on the list aren't enjoyable; then that becomes a mini-motivator all by itself.
... and gives a purpose
With a plan and a clearly defined goal, you will be able to see a purpose in what you're doing even when the amount of work you have ahead of you may feel overwhelming. For the sake of motivation, this is more important than just being able to cross things off a to-do list, even if they're actually one and the same. Being able to see progress, over the course of time, is the biggest motivator I can think of. A simple example is a bankroll tracking graph: Even with a couple of days' worth of brutal bad beats, you should still be able to look back on your bankroll progress at a whole and see that the graph is pointing up and take some comfort in that. If you know what your next milestone is, you should also be able to deduce how close you are to reaching it.
A milestone, a term simply borrowed from long distance running, is a point in progress where you can say to yourself "now I've come THIS far." If your goal is to build a bankroll of $10,000, for instance, you could have milestones every $500. It wouldn't make much sense to make each dollar a milestone, because reaching a milestone should be a time for a small celebration of some kind. Instead of focusing on the goal - which may be months or even years away - carefully spaced milestones present you with something that is attainable within the not-so-distant future. It's easier to work towards a goal that will be reached soon. This is a psychological fact for most people; "instant gratification," getting our rewards quickly, is a powerful motivator. If we were computers, setting milestones would be useless. But people need a pat on the shoulder every now and then, even if it's our own hand that's patting us.
And this brings us to a hugely important factor in setting goals: They should be measurable! If any of you work in larger corporations or have taken courses on the topic, you should be familiar with the idea. Setting goals that cannot be measured in numbers is unwise. I was originally going to say "useless," but on second thought I disagreed with myself. All goals serve some purpose, but it's the measurable ones that we can use to our advantage. Non-measurable goals I'd like to call "ambitions," which can be useful as well, but not act as milestones. Let me give a few examples:
  • "I'm going to play 10,000 hands of $25 no-limit cash games this month" - this goal is measurable. Its success can be evaluated with a simple "yes" or "no" and reasons for failure to reach it should be more or less obvious. Therefore, corrective action is easy to take ("play more").
  • I'm going to become better at Omaha" - this goal, while noble in its intent, is not going to serve as a very good milestone. You have no deadline, and you have no clear point at which you've reached your goal. This is an ambition, not a goal.
These are good examples of a milestone and an ambition. There are, however, measurable goals in poker that are counterproductive, specifically goals which specify a certain amount of profit in a too-small of a sample. For instance:
  • I want to win $1000 this week playing $2/$4 limit hold 'em" - not good.
The basic problem with that is that poker is a gambling game - you're betting on an uncertain outcome in every hand that you enter - and so you're at the mercy of the deck. Superior skill will in its own time dictate the outcome, but hardly in a single week. In just one week, it's unlikely that you'll play enough hands to actually be able to reach this goal with certainty. You should get in the habit of setting goals that are up to YOU to achieve, not the short term falling of the cards. If you're a winning player, you should be able to set a goal for winning a certain amount of money over the course of a year or a couple of months, but a week is never enough. I'd be wary of setting a monetary goal with a timeframe as short as one month as well, but that depends largely on how much you actually play.
There's yet one more principle of planning that I want to touch on: Planning for events you haven't planned for. This is not a contradiction in terms; a plan can certainly include the possibility of changing itself - a prominent example of this is the US constitution. It goes without saying that your plan will not have to be anywhere near as complete or as detailed as a country's constitution, but you should have some idea of how you will act if you decide that the current plan is not working. Just starting over again is one option - make a new plan entirely - but there can be other variants.
For instance, if you plan on playing 100,000 hands this year, and you've set out milestones of every 10,000 hands where you will review your progress, make cashouts, etc. but you find yourself in a situation where you simply won't have the time to play this much, how will you adjust? Just keeping the goal as it is and accepting that you won't reach it can be very detrimental; this goes back to the factor of discipline. I will discuss this in more detail in Lesson #5.
By now, it should be clear why this is something that a casual player is unlikely to want to go through. This is a lot of work for a hobby, and setting strict goals and being disciplined about them is not something that a casual player, whose relationship with poker is limited to logging on when there's some time left to kill now and then, is going to be up for.
Finally, your plan should be realistic. In fact, it should be more than realistic; you should give yourself padding, or more time than you think necessary, for the things you plan to do. Unexpected things always occur - including things like being bored with the game for a period of time - and disregarding those factors completely is foolhardy. If you're currently really into poker, and you play 6 hours a day, don't make a goal that requires you to keep up this pace unless you're absolutely sure that you can. Set an easier goal for yourself, because it's important that you set a goal that you can reach. Conversely, however, setting a pointless target that you don't have to work on at all to reach is also counter-productive, of course.
So how serious and detailed does a plan need to be? That's entirely dependent on the goals. I wish there was a template I could give you to fill out, but the best I can do is to give you an example, with some basic stipulations.
Anna
Anna has been playing poker for about a year, and is a somewhat stable winner at $10 no-limit hold 'em cash poker games. She plays about 10 hours a week, and is ambitious about playing more seriously. Her goal is to be a winning player at $400 no-limit, within a year. She's a well paid professional, who's not in it for the money.
She owns one poker book, Super System 2 by Doyle Brunson. She's a member of an internet forum, and has gotten the recommendation to pick up Dan Harrington's books, Sklansky's Theory of Poker and Miller/Sklansky's No Limit Hold 'em: Theory and Practise.
Her bankroll is currently $350. She breaks down her goal like this:
"Goal:
I want to be a winning player at $400 NL within a year. In order to even play $400 NL, I want a bankroll of $10,000 (25 buy-ins), but on top of that I need to be a winning player. The natural progression of limits to reach $400 is $10 -> $25 -> $50 -> $100 -> $200 -> $400. My way of gauging whether or not I'm winning is if I show a profit after 10,000 hands of a certain limit. How much profit I can show is not important.
Milestones, ambitions and rewards:
  • The smallest amount of hands I will need to play before having reached my goal is 60,000, or 5000 hands per month. To give myself some padding - in the event that my bankroll is not big enough for the jump after 10k hands - I will try to play 10,000 hands per month, but 5,000 is the minimum.
  • I'm therefore going to play at least 10,000 hands of $10 NL. If my bankroll is big enough to make the jump to $25 by then ($625, always 25 buy-ins) I will move up to $25. Then another 10,000 hands of $25 NL to see if I qualify for $50, and so on until I reach $400 NL.
  • Every time I move up to a new limit, I will cash out whatever surplus - money that exceeds 25 buy-ins at the new limit - I have and spend it on whatever I feel like.
  • I will spend at least three hours a week analyzing hands that I've played.
  • I will read Theory of Poker, and then No Limit Hold 'em: Theory and Practice , followed by the first two Harrington books in the coming two months, giving me two weeks per book. I intend to read every chapter slowly and take notes.
  • I will track my bankroll weekly using an Excel spreadsheet. In it, I will also include a small diary where I list things I've learned every week.
In case this won't work:
  • If I fail to make a profit at any specific level, I will continue there for as long as my bankroll allows - until I drop down to 25 buy-ins at the level below it - and move down when it no longer does. If this eventually leads to me not being able to reach my final goal, I will make a new plan once this is obvious."
What Anna does with her plan is up to her. She can print it and place it on the wall next to the computer, she could post it on the internet, or she could simply just keep it on a note somewhere. It is good, however, to write it down as that adds extra incentive for fulfilling it and will help her stay disciplined about what she has set out to do.
As you see, the plan doesn't take up a lot of space (and is certainly nowhere near the complexity of the US constitution!) but it contains the core elements nonetheless: A goal and milestones for reaching it, both of which are measurable, it is somewhat realistic and to-the-point, and it includes a clause about how to proceed if the goals within cannot be reached. All that is left is to wish Anna good luck.

Poker Lesson #1: Introduction

This is the first article in a series of eight poker lessons, the purpose of which is to give an idea of what kind of mindset and which commitments I deem to be the most efficient to reach real poker proficiency. The reader doesn't have to be a player aspiring to become a professional; just wanting to become good enough to beat the game at any meaningful level is enough of an ambition, but I would like to think that even future pros will get something out of these texts.
Why should you take my word on anything? You shouldn't, necessarily. You should know that I'm not a professional, and I (almost certainly) never will be. I have no ambition to become one, is the problem. I have a job that I like, and I'm not enough in love with the game of poker to pursue it full time. This has likely influenced my point of view, in the direction of being less enthusiastic and less optimistic about what is needed to become a very successful poker player. However, if I have to err on any side, I'd prefer it to be on the side of caution - so perhaps my pessimism is useful.
I have never played limits higher than $10/$20 (limit hold 'em), and I'm fairly young (29). Obviously, I lack a lot of the experiences needed to teach an up-and-coming professional everything there is to know, and I'd be surprised if no one tries to throw that in my face. Being a mentor to future world champions, teaching them what poker games are all about, is not my intention or ambition and I don't presume to be the right person to do that. I do, however, have a short list of things going for me as being someone you may want to listen to when it comes to learning about poker and working your way up:
  • I know a thing or two about the game. I first started playing at the age of 17, and I've played quite a lot since those days. I don't claim to be an authority on poker strategy, but I am confident about the fundamentals and I have sufficient theoretical understanding to realize that I'm no master. Having what it takes and knowing what it takes are two different things, and I know I don't have it.
  • I've worked myself up from the $.10/$.20 tables. I've gone through the ranks the slow way and I've picked up lessons along the way. I'm not precisely what you would call a high-roller, but I've learned valuable poker lessons in getting to where I am today.
  • Planning and executing virtually-impossible-to-meet schedules is what I do for a living. I've learned a thing or two about being a realistic planner from this experience - so I'd like to think I should have at least some authority regarding making plans for success
But enough about me - let's talk about you.
Anyone can read this, of course, but my target audience is a decently experienced beginner who has started to "get" the game of poker and is now considering taking it more seriously. I use "seriously" in the sense of "being willing to spend as much time as I can to get better at it," here, not necessarily in the sense of wanting to turn it into his or her primary source of income, as I've stated above. The reason I'm repeating this is because I really want to drive home the point that devoting yourself to poker the way I'm suggesting in this series is not something that most people will (or even should) want to do. Perhaps casual players will still get something out of reading this, though, specifically that they're making the right call staying casual. And there's nothing wrong with that.

Also, none of these articles will actually give strategy tips or pointers. You won't learn how to play AQ-offsuit from middle position, and you won't find out how to extract the most money when you flop a set, there are loads of books for that. I will, however, encourage you to read those books, and then re-read them. And perhaps read them again.
And this brings us to the first lesson in this series: Learning how to beat poker takes time - a lot of time. In fact, likely more time than you can imagine. Being a fast learner is imperative, but even if you are you still will need plenty of time to soak up all the information you can in order to move forward. There are natural talents (Stu Ungar comes to mind), but they are very few and far between, and the likelyhood of you being one of them is diminishingly small. The rest of us - myself included - have to work hard to reach a real understanding of how to play.
Now, the exact numbers here aren't important, but I want to give you an idea about the scale of what I'm talking about in terms of experience and understanding:
  • Playing a hundred thousand hands.
  • Reading ~3000 pages of poker books, some of them several times and a few of them many times.
  • Spending about an hour for every three hours played analyzing the way you played certain hands.
Almost certainly, there will be someone reading this article who will think "100k hands is nowhere near enough!" and this person is probably correct. My point is that if you think 100k hands sounds like a lot, you have to brace yourself for the fact that it will likely take even more - and probably a lot more.
Do you really need to read all those books? Yes, and no. You don't really need to read all of them, since there will likely be a few books from which you won't really learn anything you didn't already know, or couldn't have picked up from some other book. However, you still need to read all of them because you have no way of knowing beforehand which books you could have been able to skip. It's a bit of a catch 22, you could say. The willingness to study is absolutely key to becoming better and you should feel excited about devouring a new book on the market, scouring it for things that can help you become better. If you think reading books is boring, then your only way to greatness may be natural talent - see above for how likely I believe this to be.
Spending 25% of your poker time on analyzing hands already played (yours and others') is also something you should take into account and plan for. The best way of plugging holes in your game is to put them under intense scrutiny, and preferably the scrutiny of others. You would do well to spend a lot of time on internet forums, discussing your own and others' hands. This number - 25% - may be a bit off, but I believe it is reasonable.
If you can work through the three-part list above in less than a year, I'm impressed, not the least if you have other commitments (a job, school, parenting, etc.) that take up time. I read stories all the time about new poker millionaires, like some kid from my home town who won $1 million last year, and similar things. It's not surprising that many people think that poker is easy money, but they should stop and wonder how come, if it's so easy, not everyone is doing it. The answer, naturally, is that poker - for most of us - isn't such easy money after all. I hope to convey that message clearly in these eight articles, but I also hope that you, despite my inherently negative attitude, will be excited about my suggestions and that you'll make good use of them.
You've likely got a long way to go, and although not everything I suggest will sound fun and exciting, I do believe that it may shorten the time it will take you to get there.

Sit And Go Strategy

The online Sit & Go ( SNG ) games are a popular choice for many cyber poker players. Let's take a look at a strategy for the typical No Limit game with the common three places paid payout structure. In our game we'll assume that 1st place pays 50% of the buy in, 2nd place pays out 30%, and 3rd pays 20%. This payout structure leads us to our first strategy decision. That is, are we going to be playing to finish in the money or are we playing to win?

Some will argue that we must play for first place. They would argue that only the larger payoffs will enable us to be a net winning player. The buy in includes a steep rake for the house they argue and only by playing to win can we overcome this charge. For example in a $10 SNG the poker room may charge you $10+1 with the house keeping the dollar. This is over 9% that goes to the house. Larger SNGs usually have slightly smaller charges but they are still significant. In our example a first place finish pays two and a half times more than a third place finish. That justifys taking some risks.

Playing for first early means playing more aggressively. It means taking chances early in an attempt to build up a large chip stack. With the large stack you can control the action. You can push people around and put them all-in. Sometimes things will go your way and you'll find yourself sitting on top of a pile of chips. Other times this more risky strategy will leave you crippled or out of the tournament early. Proponents of the play to win strategy don't mind busting out of a SNG early. They figure that it's better to go out early and just get into another game than to lose out on the bubble wasting all that time and effort.

Other players play to get in the money. If they make it to the cash, they reason; then they can try to move up. These player will tend to lay low and avoid the action early in the tourney. They want to avoid the aggressive action that can break out at the beginning of the SNG. The finish-in-the-money player is seeking to shorten her odds by letting the other players take each other out. She reasons that if one or two players make a quick exit that significantly helps her chances. Furthermore, one of the players eliminated early might be a powerful player who just suffered a bad beat. A player using this strategy tries to cultivate a tight table image that they can later exploit. So the mantra of a finish in the money strategy could be, "Don't gamble early."

So which strategy should you adopt? Like most decisions in poker the answer is, "It depends". Online SNGs are unique in that we don't have much of an opportunity to engage in table selection. Typically when a table opens up for registration there is a 'land rush' for any available seat. We don't get the luxury of observing a table for a round or so like we do at a normal ring game. We have to figure out our opponents on the fly. If you play regularly, your notes can be a great help. But usually the first few hands will be a learning experience. Who are the aggressors and who are the maniacs? Who is sitting out the early action? Is this an aggressive table or is everyone playing tight? What's my position relative to the aggressors?

If you find yourself in a crazy game where several players are going all-in in a suicde pact, that's great. Sit back for awhile and let them chew each other up. You are hoping that several of these guys make a quick exit. The blinds should still be relatively low and you'll have plenty of time to pick your spots. Your chances of finishing in the money are good. If you find yourself at the other extreme and no one is stepping out of line, seek to take charge of this type of game. Look for opportunities to play your opponent more so than the cards. You're going for the gold in this type of game.

Most games will require tactics that mix the two basic strategies. As an example, last night I was in a SNG that was very aggressive at first. Four players were strongly contesting each pot. I chose to sit back and really picked my spots. I managed to stay pretty much even lurking around third or fourth place. After about 25 minutes, the character of the game changed. Two of the aggressive players were eliminated. The other two had accumulated large chip stacks. At this point it seemed none of the remaining 8 players wanted to play aggressively. The two high stacks seemed content. The other six of us were slow to recognize the new situation. Finally, I picked up on the new situation and started picking up some easy pots. As with most games, the character of that game changed several times. Each time it was important to recognize the change and adapt.

The default strategy that I feel most comfortable with is to play conservatively early. Don't gamble and play very tightly. Wait for the field to thin. As you near the bubble use your tight table image to play aggressively and steal a few pots. Your opponents may be reluctant to contest a pot and risk busting out on the bubble. But recognize that this strategy is a strategy now widely espoused by the better SNG players. You may need to take your tactical thinking to another level if someone else is aware of what you are up to.

So, while I'll enter the game with a basic thumbnail strategy; I think the important point is to not get wedded to either SNG objective. A good businessman will ask himself everyday, "What business am I in today?" He knows that conditions and opportunity are ever changing. He must adapt in order to survive and to thrive. Perhaps sit & go players should ask themselves a similar question, "What type of game am I in right now?" Asking this question on an ongoing basis will point us in the right direction. Play for the win when conditions are right to do so. Play to place in the money when that's the best choice. By being flexible and adjusting our objective when needed we can enhance our SNG play and boost our win rate. 

Sit And Go Strategy (low stakes)

Introduction to Sit And Go Strategy
One of the most popular games for new online poker players is Sit and Go Tournaments. The buy-ins can range from $5 to $5,000, and they typically last less than an hour. If you have the attention span, you can also play more than one table at once. Since a lot of people have watched no limit tournaments on TV, they want to play similar tournaments when the begin playing out. The Sit and Go Tournaments are great because they give you a chance to have fun while building your bankroll. Conversely, playing multi-table tournaments is not a good way to build a bankroll because there is too much variance. This article will guide you through sit and go strategy for low stakes sit and go's.



Sit & Go Early Rounds

The blind are usually a small portion of your starting stack in the first two rounds. Many novice players in these tournaments make the mistake of not protecting their monsters hands like AA and KK pre-flop by making small raises. When the blinds are low, you should be playing suited connectors and suited gap connectors because it costs you a very small percentage of your stack. You are looking to hit a flop hard with 2 pair or to flop a strong draw. Often people under-bet the pot with top pair to keep people in the hand, so you often get a great price to draw to your straight or flush. Now when you have big hands like AA, KK, QQ, AK, AQ, and so forth, it’s key to play them correctly. With big pairs, you want to raise 3-4 times the big blind. Your ideal situation is to get 2-3 callers and isolate yourself with someone who flops top pair and is a 7 to 10 underdog against your overpair. The level of play in these tournaments is such that people will often commit themselves with top pair, even if they have a poor kicker. But remember, you want to narrow the field on the flop, don’t make bets so small that people with weak hands get the odds to call and chase you down. With big drawing hands like AK-AJ, KQ, etc… you still want to raise 3-4 times the big blind. If you don’t hit the flop, it’s ok to let these hands go, because you haven’t invested too much in the pot. When you hit top pair with any of the aforementioned hands, you will almost always have the best hand and should feel comfortable playing it for all your chips. Someone people will disagree with me here, but the level of play in these tournaments is quite poor and you want to take advantage of this.

Middle rounds

As the blinds go up, you starting hand selection should change a bit. Suited connectors are no longer profitable because not enough people are in the hand and the stakes are too large relative to people’s stacks to be playing these hands. Now you should tighten your standards up and playing the premium drawing hands and pairs 77 and bigger for a raise. The blinds become bigger, and there is nothing wrong with taking down an uncontested pot at this stage in the game. If you have a well above average stack, you can afford to wait for premium holdings. However if you are about average in terms of chip count, you will need to play some hands to build your stack. Remember that you don’t need pocket aces to go all in pre-flop against a raise. I would advocate moving in with any pocket pair of tens or higher or Ace-King and Ace-Queen at this stage of the game. These are strong hands and will often be a favorite if your opponent calls. Additionally, your opponent will often fold and you build your stack without having to show down the hand. Let’s take a look at why this approach is good. Let’s say you are on the button with pocket tens. The blinds are 100-200, and you have 900 chips. There are six players left. A player in middle position with 1400 chips makes a minimum raise to 400. If you just call, it’s difficult to navigate the flop because there might be overcards. However you are committing a large portion of your stack by calling in the first place, so you really can’t fold the hand. Now let’s say you move all in. Your opponent must think about folding hands like Ax, KQ, and lower pocket pairs, which leaves you in great shape. Sometimes he will call with these hands because of the pot odds and you are in great shape to double up. You are slightly ahead of hands like AK and AQ, and the dead money from the blinds makes this even more profitable for you. The only hands that you really don’t want to be up against are JJ-AA. This is why it’s better sometimes to just move in with a reasonably strong holding then to see a flop.


Late Stages of a Sit And Go Tournament

Now the blinds are getting very high in relation to the average stack size. You should not enter pots with marginal hands. Be VERY weary on confronting other big stacks without strong holdings, because they can bust you. You don’t want to go out on the bubble when there is another player with ½ as many chips as you. As soon as you are in the money, you should play to win. Since first place typically pays 2 and a half times as much as third, it’s ok to take some risks to try and win. Trust your instincts and make some bluffs, you can’t win without doing that. Now that you are shorthanded, I sometimes like tot trap aggressive opponents by check-raising all in with top pair or even middle pair I think have the best hand. It’s ok to move in with and reasonable ace or pocket pair pre-flop, because the blinds are so big. This is the stage of the game where you want to take down as many pots uncontested as possible by going all in before the flop with strong holding. A hand like A-8 is usually the best hand when you are 3 handed, but it hard to play because you only flop an Ace 18% of the time. By playing aggressively, you build your stack and often get called on all ins by weaker hands like KQ , KJ, and other weak holdings. People really like to gamble once they know they are making money anyway!

If you use these guidelines to adjust your play throughout the Sit and Go Tournaments, you should be able to build you bankroll and enjoy yourself. Remember to adapt as the blinds go up, and don’t worry about losing a few tournaments in a row, everyone has. I once went 8 straight tournaments without even cashing! Then I won 3 of the next four. Best of luck!

Loose/tight/Aggressive/passive

Loose/tight play

Loose players play relatively more hands and tend to continue with weaker hands; hence they don't often fold. Tight players play relatively fewer hands and tend not to continue with weaker hands; hence they often fold. The following concepts are applicable in loose games (and their inverse in tight games)
  • Bluffs and semi-bluffs are less effective because loose opponents are less likely to fold.
  • Requirements for continuing with made hands may be lower because loose players may also be playing lower value hands.
  • Drawing to incomplete hands, like flushes, tends to be more valuable as draws will often get favorable pot odds and a stronger hand (rather than merely one pair) is often required to win in multi-way pots.


Aggressive/passive play

 

In the game of poker, opens and raises are considered aggressive plays, while calls and checks are considered passive (though a check-raise would be considered a very aggressive play). It is said that "aggression has its own value", meaning that often aggressive plays can make money with weak hands because of bluff value. In general, opponents must respond to aggressive play by playing more loosely, which offers more opportunities to make mistakes.
While it is true that aggressive play is generally superior to passive play, using any play exclusively can lead to predictability, and being too predictable is far worse than being too passive. A player who is constantly aggressive and plays many inferior hands is called a "maniac", and skilled players will take advantage of him by calling him more often, using isolation plays, and by other means.
If a player is not aggressive with his weaker hands, the opponents can safely fold whenever the player does bet or raise. The appropriate amount of aggression can be computed using game theory, and depends on the game being played and the tendencies of the opponents.
Most theorists, like David Sklansky and Doyle Brunson suggest aggression as an important tool. It is also worth noting that aggressive play should not be confused with loose play. Aggression is called for in particular circumstances. Very strong starting hands should be played very aggressively most of the time. A very strong propositional hand - one that is more likely to win with a straight or a flush - is one of the hands that can be played for effect with an aggressive style. Such aggression is deceptive, as the low and unpaired ranks of the starting hand require much improvement to win. This is beneficial for two reasons:
  • When the hand improves the preceding aggression has increased the size of the pot, meaning a larger win.
  • On future raises with more traditionally powerful hands, other players must consider the fact that the aggressor's open or raise is indicative of a strong drawing hand as opposed to a high pair.
The second reasoning is what is known as "advertising" in poker. It can be very profitable for a player to convince the other players at the table that he is willing to gamble with less than premium cards. The result is larger pots when the aggressive player has tremendously strong hands.




Raise or Just call

Reasons to raise


Unlike calling, raising has an extra way to win: opponents may fold. An opening bet may be considered a raise from a strategy perspective. David Sklansky gives seven reasons for raising, summarized below.[1]
  • To get more money in the pot when a player has the best hand: If a player has the best hand, raising for value enables them to win a bigger pot.
  • To drive out opponents when a player has the best hand: If a player has a made hand, raising may protect their hand by driving out opponents with drawing hands who may otherwise improve to a better hand.
  • To bluff or semi-bluff: If a player raises with an inferior or drawing hand, the player may induce a better hand to fold. In the case of semi-bluff, if the player is called, they still have a chance to improve to a better hand (and also win a larger pot).
  • To get a free card: If a player raises with a drawing hand, their opponent may check to them on the next betting round, giving them a chance to get a free card to improve their hand.
  • To gain information: If a player raises with an uncertain hand, they gain information about the strength of their opponent's hand if they are called. Players may use an opening bet on a later betting round (probe or continuation bets) to gain information by being called or raised (or may win the pot immediately).
  • To drive out worse hands when a player's own hand may be second best: Sometimes, if a player raises with the second best hand with cards to come, raising to drive out opponents with worse hands (but who might improve) may increase the expected value of their hand by giving them a higher probability of winning in the event their hand improves.
  • To drive out better hands when a drawing hand bets: If an opponent with an apparent drawing hand bets before a player, if the player raises, opponents behind them who may have a better hand may fold rather than call a bet and raise. This is a form of isolation play.


Reasons to call

 

There are several reasons for calling a bet or raise, summarized below.
  • To see more cards: With a drawing hand, a player may be receiving the correct pot odds with the call to see more cards.
  • To limit loss in equity: Calling may be appropriate when a player has adequate pot odds to call but will lose equity on money contributed to the pot.
  • To avoid a re-raise: Only calling (and not raising) denies the original bettor the option of re-raising. However, this is only completely safe in case the player is last to act (i.e. "closing the action").
  • To conceal the strength of a player's hand: If a player has a very strong hand, they might smooth call on an early betting round to avoid giving away the strength of their hand on the hope of getting more money into the pot in later betting rounds.
  • To manipulate pot odds: By calling (not raising), a player offers any opponents yet to act behind them more favorable pot odds to also call. For example, if a player has a very strong hand, a smooth call may encourage opponents behind them to overcall, building the pot. Particularly in limit games, building the pot in an earlier betting round may induce opponents to call future bets in later betting rounds because of the pot odds they will be receiving.
  • To set up a bluff on a later betting round: Sometimes referred to as a long-ball bluff, calling on an earlier betting round can set up a bluff (or semi-bluff) on a later betting round. A recent online term for "long-ball bluffing" is floating.

Position (poker)

Texas hold 'em example

Example of position-sm.jpg
There are 10 players playing $4/$8 . Alice pays the $2 small blind. Bob pays the $4 big blind. Carol is under the gun (first to act). If Carol has a hand like K♥ J♠, she may choose to fold. With 9 opponents remaining to act, there is approximately a 40% chance that at least one of them will have a better hand than Carol's like A-A, K-K, Q-Q, J-J, A-K, A-Q, A-J or K-Q. And even if no one does, seven of them (all but the two players in the blind) will have position on Carol in the next three betting rounds.
Now instead, suppose David in the cut-off position (to the right of the button) has the same K♥ J♠ and all players fold to him. In this situation, there are only three opponents left to act, so the odds that one of them has a better hand are considerably less (only around 16%). Secondly, two of those three (Alice and Bob) will be out of position to David on later betting rounds. A common play would be for David to raise and hope that the button (the only player who has position on David) folds. David's raise might simply steal the blinds if they don't have playable hands, but if they do play, David will be in good shape to take advantage of his position in later betting rounds.